Making Turkey Stock With Suzanne Goin

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Recipe Lab, a monthly feature, invites you to cook with the Dining section. In each installment, Julia Moskin chooses a standout recipe from a cookbook for you to try at home. Post your comments and questions about the recipe, ingredients and techniques; the next week, we’ll share answers from the recipe’s author. This month’s recipe: roasted turkey stock, made with Thanksgiving leftovers.

Although soup is rarely on her menus, the Los Angeles chef Suzanne Goin uses stock constantly, in the vegetable braises and deep-flavored stews that she is famous for at her restaurant Lucques, and for homey dishes like the turkey pot pie at Tavern. (A cookbook for her restaurant A.O.C., written with her business partner, the wine expert Caroline Styne, has just been published, though this stock recipe is not in it; you see it here first.) “I don’t like to stress out home cooks by insisting on homemade stock in my books,” she said. “But when you’re making a turkey anyway, it’s the logical next step.”

This stock is interchangeable with chicken stock in virtually any recipe (except for chicken soup). It has the usual aromatics — carrots, celery, onions — plus a concentrated shot of white wine and a dried chile, which add a welcome breath of freshness. (Sometimes poultry stock can taste flat.) Roasting the bones and the vegetables in the same pan streamlines the process and adds depth of flavor.

Here is where I’d love to hear from you: If you’re planning to make Ms. Goin’s recipe, or if you’re not quite sure how to make the most of your leftover turkey, post a question or comment below by Monday, Nov. 25. I’ll be chatting with Ms. Goin and will pass along some of your comments to her; then I’ll share her answers with you in a follow-up article next week. And as always, if you make the recipe, please let us know how it turned out.

Recipe: Roasted Turkey Stock

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Thursday, November 21, 2013